Climbers of Action Direct / World First 9a

Action Directe is an iconic sport climbing route and the world's first 9a / UIAA 11 / 5.14d in the climbing history.
The first ascent was made by legendary Wolfgang Güllich's  in 1991.
To be able to climb this route Wolfgang Güllich and friends invented campus board to gain finger strenght. True story of the campusboard  here
Below is the list of the climbers who repeated the route after Güllich FA

Photo: Wikipedia.org

Alexander Adler  09.10.1995  video

Iker Pou 07.06.2000   video

Dave Graham  21.05.2001 

Christian Bindhammer  14.05.2003 

Rich Simpson 13.10.2005 video

Dai Koyamada 15.10.2005 video

Markus Bock 22.10.2005 

Kilian Fischhuber 25.09.2006 video

Adam Ondra 19.05.2008 video

Patxi Usobiaga 24.10.2008 

Gabriele Moroni 17.04.2010 video

Jan Hojer 22.05.2010 video

Adam Pustelnik  10.10.2010 video

Felix Knaub 22.10.2011 video

Rustam Gelmanov  26.03.2012 video

Alexander Megos 03.05.2014 video

History of Campus Board

Wofgang Güllich...
Frankenjura...
Pan Gullich (aka Campus Board )

When I was reading something about Güllich I thought that his aproach to climbing training has similarities to Bruce Lee's aproach to Martial arts training.
Always searching, trying to put new methods, working close with scientist, trying to invent new training equipments etc.
The only reason for both athlete is to push their limits with training.

While Gullich trying new routes in Frankenjura he needed more explosive power and finger strenght to achieve his goals in the area.
Finally after brainstorming, designs, tries Wolfgang Güllich, Kurt Albert, Norbert Sandner and Jery Moffat invented todays "Campus Board" in the Campus Center in Nürnberg/Germany

Wolfgang Güllich                                                                            Kurt Albert

       

Jerry Moffat

Norbert Sandner

               

The original campusboard       Photo:Campus Center

                    

Still the original campus board can be found at Campus Center in Nürnberg.
A website dedicated to campusboard
A good search about campusboard here
More about campusboard training here and here
Campus Board configurations here

5 mistakes of campus board training.

A video about campus board training mistakes.

Specific Strenght Training for Climbing

Climbing Specific Strength Training from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

German Climbing Team Training, Stuntwerk 2014

An interesting training video of German Climbing Team by head coach of the team Udo Neumann.

Jan Hojer Training

Jan Hojer Training Video.Very strong one.


Jan Hojer Training from Jan Hojer on Vimeo.

New Climbing Project

Aiming to be a portal of all about climbing.
Training tips, videos, researches, news and more about climbing.

Follow us
facebook.com/ClimbingDaily
twitter.com/Climbing_Daily