How to Get Stronger From Climbing Training
"The most important part of any successful training program has nothing to do with training itself. The most important part of training–the part that will affect your performance the most–is REST and RECOVERY. That’s the answer I was hoping to hear.
Rest and recovery are probably the least planned and underutilized ways to enhance performance.
In 15 years of climbing and dealing with my own injuries, 3+ years of working with athletes’ broken bodies and 1 year of barbell training I have learned one thing:
-YOU DO NOT GET STRONGER FROM YOUR TRAINING, YOU GET STRONGER FROM RECOVERING FROM YOUR TRAINING.-
Climber Natasha Barnes who is Climber, Strength Athlete, Chiropractor & Physiotherapist told.
For more info go to her website
World's first 5.15a (Fb 9a+ ) Biographie/Realization Climbers
In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted a line in Ceuse and named it Biographie Fb 9a+.
The first ascent was made by Chris Sharma and called it as Realization.
Below is the list and videos of the climber on the route.
Sylvain Millet on May 24, 2004
Patxi Usobiaga on July 29, 2004
Dave Graham on July 30, 2007
Ethan Pringle on September 2, 2007
Ramón Julián Puigblanque on July 27, 2008
Enzo Oddo on August 15, 2010
Jonathan Siegrist on June 1, 2014
Alex Megos on July 11, 2014
Adam Ondra on July 22, 2014
Sachi Amma on August 7, 2014
Chris Sharma
Sachi Amma
Sylvain Millet
Jonathan Siegrist
Alexander Megos
Dave Graham
Adam Ondra Flash Attempt
Climbers of Action Direct / World First 9a
Action Directe is an iconic sport climbing route and the world's first 9a / UIAA 11 / 5.14d in the climbing history.
The first ascent was made by legendary Wolfgang Güllich's in 1991.
To be able to climb this route Wolfgang Güllich and friends invented campus board to gain finger strenght. True story of the campusboard here
Below is the list of the climbers who repeated the route after Güllich FA
The first ascent was made by legendary Wolfgang Güllich's in 1991.
To be able to climb this route Wolfgang Güllich and friends invented campus board to gain finger strenght. True story of the campusboard here
Below is the list of the climbers who repeated the route after Güllich FA
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| Photo: Wikipedia.org |
Alexander Adler 09.10.1995 video
Iker Pou 07.06.2000 video
Dave Graham 21.05.2001
Christian Bindhammer 14.05.2003
Rich Simpson 13.10.2005 video
Dai Koyamada 15.10.2005 video
Markus Bock 22.10.2005
Kilian Fischhuber 25.09.2006 video
Adam Ondra 19.05.2008 video
Patxi Usobiaga 24.10.2008
Gabriele Moroni 17.04.2010 video
Jan Hojer 22.05.2010 video
Adam Pustelnik 10.10.2010 video
Felix Knaub 22.10.2011 video
Rustam Gelmanov 26.03.2012 video
Alexander Megos 03.05.2014 video
History of Campus Board
Frankenjura...
Pan Gullich (aka Campus Board )
When I was reading something about Güllich I thought that his aproach to climbing training has similarities to Bruce Lee's aproach to Martial arts training.
Always searching, trying to put new methods, working close with scientist, trying to invent new training equipments etc.
The only reason for both athlete is to push their limits with training.
While Gullich trying new routes in Frankenjura he needed more explosive power and finger strenght to achieve his goals in the area.
Finally after brainstorming, designs, tries Wolfgang Güllich, Kurt Albert, Norbert Sandner and Jery Moffat invented todays "Campus Board" in the Campus Center in Nürnberg/Germany
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| Wolfgang Güllich Kurt Albert |
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| Jerry Moffat |
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| Norbert Sandner |
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| The original campusboard Photo:Campus Center |
Still the original campus board can be found at Campus Center in Nürnberg.
A website dedicated to campusboard
A good search about campusboard here
More about campusboard training here and here
Campus Board configurations here
German Climbing Team Training, Stuntwerk 2014
An interesting training video of German Climbing Team by head coach of the team Udo Neumann.
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